The other day my attention was drawn to a post in an online "newspaper" where some blogger not only said that having weight loss surgery was taking the easy way out and cheating but also that, if you didn't agree with her, you were the kind of person who enables drug addicts!!
Part of me thought the whole thing was too stupid to respond to, but then I found out that not only was she holding herself up as example of how to lose weight the "right" way -- by eating only 500 calories a day and indulging in the sort of exercise program normally associated with exercise anorexia, but that lately (because somehow that didn't result in permanent weight loss – go figure), she's jumped on the whole juice fast craze and I just had to respond. (I admit it. It was the juice fasting pushed me over the edge.)
First of all, when did doing something the hard way become a morally superior option vs. being smart about it and using whatever tools are available to you? In all other aspects of our lives, using tools is seen as smart, not cheating. But in weight loss apparently the only true path has to involve suffering. Lots and lots of suffering.
Let's say you have two people who both love to garden. One of them uses gardening tools and even owns a tiller to help dig up the ground before planting. They use an electric hedge trimmer too. The other one does the whole garden using a teaspoon and a pair of scissors. Their results aren't as good as the first person, but, hey, at least they didn't "take the easy way out" by using power tools!
Yeah, when you put it that way, it sounds a bit crazy. But that’s definitely some people’s attitude toward losing weight. If it’s not as hard as digging a garden with a teaspoon, then somehow it’s suspect.
The whole "easy way” knock also assumes that we were never successful at long-term weight loss before because we didn't know what to do and/or weren't willing to do it. Then, instead of learning what we need to know and buckling down to do the work, we just waved our magic wand, uh.. I mean had bariatric surgery, and the weight fell off and we never had a problem ever again.
Yeah, right. If only.
Perhaps there are people who fit that picture. But most of us have been on many diets and have worked hard many times to lose weight only to not be able to lose all our excess weight and be able to keep it off. We've been to the classes on nutrition and goal setting. We've read the articles and books on how to lose weight. We’ve kept a food journal. We’ve role-played dealing with food saboteurs. We've gone to the gym and taken up jogging.
We know what to do and we've done it many times before. It just hasn't resulted in permanent weight loss. “But I know someone who knows someone who lost 100 pounds and kept it off for seven years!” Good for them! It’s great if you can lose weight without surgery because, hey, it's surgery. Why not avoid it if you can? But it’s not a moral failing if you can’t.
Let's say you have two people who are both addicted to heroin. They both get clean. One does it by going cold turkey and the other does it by going to a clinic where they get counseling and methadone. Is the first person somehow "better" than the second?
There are people who would say so, but I am not one of them.
Does that mean that any way you lose weigh is okay and there is no cheating or "easy way out" in weight loss?
To be honest, I do think there are "easy way out" and "cheating" methods. But the ironic thing is that I would put the original author's methods in that category way before weight loss surgery!
Most people would agree that, if you do something extreme like only eat 500 calories a day for a month or drink nothing but juice several days a week, you are trying to lose weight via some sort of trick (a.k.a. cheating) that doesn't require you to make permanent changes to your life (a.k.a. taking the easy way out).
But weight loss surgery doesn't fall into those categories.
Now, it used to be believed that weight loss surgery worked because it forced you to eat less and, if you got a kind with malabsorption, not all your calories are absorbed. So maybe that’s where the whole “easy way out” and “cheating” ideas came from.
See, you get surgery and then you can eat anything you want because you won’t absorb the calories and you can’t eat a lot even if you want to. So you have to lose weight whether you want to or not and it’s easy! Again, I say: Yeah, right. If only.
Yes, you don't eat a lot in the beginning, but that's because of medical necessity. As soon as you can eat more, you do. Plus, while you can’t eat as much at each meal as before, there is nothing to stop you from eating every hour or just drinking all your calories.
Then, with bypass, the malabsorption goes away over time so eventually you do absorb everything. (With duodenal switch, which is a lot less common, malabsorption is more permanent, but 100% of carbohydrates are always absorbed, so you still have to watch what you eat.)
As many have learned, weight loss surgery isn’t a magic fix and, if you don’t make permanent changes, the weight comes back just like it does when you juice fast or go on the HGC diet.
So why doesn't everyone who has weight loss surgery just eat around their surgery and gain all their weight back? Or better yet, why don’t they just do those things without having surgery?
It's because bariatric surgery fixes a part of our body that was broken - the homeostatic system that controls energy balance.
And this is where all these analogies fall down. Because weight loss surgery isn’t a “tool” like a hedge trimmer or methadone, as popular as that analogy is in the bariatric community.
It’s a repair job.
It’s a repair job in the same way that heart bypass surgery is a repair job. It’s a repair job that has various degrees of success – sometimes everything is repaired 100% and sometimes you’ve just improved the situation over what you had before. (And, in very rare cases, you fix one system, but break another.)
Then, once you are repaired, it’s up to you to make the necessary changes to keep everything from breaking again. Only now it’s a lot easier to do that because you aren’t working with broken machinery and doing things like exercise and eating less actually results in weight loss while eating as many calories as you burn doesn’t leave you ravenously hungry.
So I was broken and I chose surgery to fix me after exploring many other (reasonable) options without success.
If you think that’s cheating, I think that says more about you than it does about me.
Sunday, May 17, 2015
I guess I "cheated" but I don't care
Sunday, March 22, 2015
Vanilla Wafers
They weren't pretty, but they were sweet and crispy and they hit the spot when I buried them in creamy vanilla pudding with slices of ripe banana
- 1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, at room temperature
- 3/4 cup granulated Splenda
- 1 large egg, at room temperature
- 2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract
- 1 cup almond flour
- 1/4 cup all purpose flour
- 3/4 teaspoon baking powder
- Pinch of fine salt
Using a stand mixer, cream the butter and Splenda on medium speed until fluffy, about 2 minutes.
Scrape down the bowl and add the egg and vanilla and mix until smooth, about 2 minutes.
In a separate bowl, combine the almond flour, baking powder and salt.
Add the dry mixture to the butter mixture.
Reduce the mixer speed to low and mix until just combined, about 30 seconds.
At this point if the dough feels warm, refrigerate it until chilled, about 15 minutes.
When the dough feels cool to the touch, scoop out teaspoon-size balls and drop them on the prepared baking sheets.
The dough should yield about 4 dozen balls.
Bake at 350 F until golden on the top shelf in your oven, 12 to 15 minutes.
Let cool.
Cook's Notes:
Be sure your almond flour is VERY fine. I run mine through the food processor to get the finest possible texture - particularly if I have almond MEAL in the pantry..
I returned mine to the oven after I turned it off to allow them to get very crispy as the oven cooled,
--dave---
The Bariatric Food Dude
Saturday, March 7, 2015
Hazelnut Mocha Protein Pavlova
A Pavlova is a meringue, and it is important when making any meringue that the egg whites reach maximum volume, so make sure your mixing bowl and whisk are clean and free of grease. Since we need just the whites of the eggs, the eggs will need to be separated. It is easier to do this while the eggs are still cold. Once separated, cover the egg whites and let them come to room temperature before using (about 30 minutes). Cover and refrigerate the egg yolks for another use.
Hazelnut Mocha Protein Pavlova
Nutrition Facts
Servings 8
Amount Per Serving
Calories 132
Total Fat 2.8g
Saturated Fat 1.1g
Trans Fat 0.0g
Cholesterol 4mg
Sodium 150mg
Total Carbohydrates 4.7g
Dietary Fiber 1.3g5%
Sugars 2.6g
Protein 23.1g
For the meringue:
6 egg whites
1 1/3 cups Splenda Granular
8 tsp cocoa powder
1 tbsp instant coffee
1/4 cup roasted hazelnuts, chopped
For the filling:
2 cups Greek Yoghurt
1/4 cup roasted hazelnuts, chopped
4 scoops high quality chocolate protein shake mix
1 tbsp instant coffee
1/4 cup Splenda Granular (or to taste)
For the topping:
Fresh raspberries or strawberries
Sugar Free Chocolate syrup (optional)
On parchment paper draw four 9 inch diameter circles and place onto baking trays.
In a large metal or glass bowl, using an electric mixer, whisk the egg whites and 1/3 of the Splenda until thick and fluffy.
While whisking at full speed gradually add the rest of the Splenda. When all of the Splenda has been added the mixture should be very thick with a silky texture.
Gently fold in the cocoa powder and instant coffee.
Using a large piping bag, start at the centre of the circles and pipe outwards in a spiral motion until you get to the edge of the circle.
When all 4 circles are piped sprinkle hazelnuts gently over each one and SLOWLY cook the meringue in a very low oven (200 - 225 F) for about 2-2 ½ hours, until crisp.
For the filling, mix the remaining hazelnuts, chocolate protein shake mix, instant coffee, Splenda and Greek Yogurt together.
To serve, layer the meringue circles with the chocolate, coffee, nut and yogurt mixture then garnish with fresh berries. Optionally, drizzle the top and sides with sugar free chocolate syrup.
Cook's Notes: Don't try to whip egg whites in a plastic bowl. The plastic absorbs oils from previous uses and won't allow the whipped mixture to reach its full potential.
Try finely chopping your favorite protein bar into the filling for added texture/flavor.
For individual servings, try piping meringue into 3 or 4 inch circles.
Left Over Turkey Salad
Turkey Salad
Nutrition Facts
Servings 6
Amount Per Serving
Calories 132
Total Fat 5.0g
Saturated Fat 1.1g
Cholesterol 37mg
Sodium 68mg
Total Carbohydrates 7.5g
Dietary Fiber 0.9g
Sugars 4.8g
Protein 14.3g
2 cups cooked turkey, cut into bite-size pieces
1/4 cup roasted sunflower seed kernels
2 Tbsp raisins, dried cranberries and/or dried cherries
1 small apple, cored and diced
2 Tbsp mayonnaise
2 Tbsp plain Greek Yogurt
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
In a salad bowl, combine the turkey, sunflower seeds, raisins, apples, mayonnaise, lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
Mix well and refrigerate at least 2 hours to blend flavors.
Cook's Notes: You might want to add a pinch of Splenda Granular or your favorite sweetener, depending on the sweetness imparted by the apple
Chili Rellenos Casserole
Chili Rellenos Casserole
4 whole Roasted, Peeled, And Seeded Green Chiles (or 1 - 4oz canned green chilies)
1 cup Monterrey Jack Cheese, Grated
3 whole Large Eggs or Egg beaters equivalent
1 cup whole Milk (Not skim see Cook's Notes)
Salt And Black Pepper To Taste
1/4 teaspoons Smoked Paprika
Dash Cayenne Pepper
Preheat oven to 325 F.
Mix together eggs, milk, salt, pepper, paprika and cayenne.
Set aside
Cut chilies in half and add a single layer of chilies on the bottom of a square baking dish.
Top chilies with half the grated cheese.
Repeat with another layer of chilies and another layer of cheese.
Slowly pour egg mixture all over the top. Add more cheese if you like. (MORE is BETTER!!!)
Place square dish into a larger baking dish or rimmed baking sheet.
Pour in 1/2 inch of water and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until completely set.
Cut into 6 squares and Enjoy!
Cook's Notes: Requires whole milk as a minimum. Ad a splash of cream or half'n'half for richness. Needs the fat or finished product gets watery as it sits.
Pumpkin Custard
Pumpkin Custard
Nutrition Facts
Servings 6
Amount Per Serving
Calories 101
Total Fat 6.3g
Saturated Fat 3.5g
Cholesterol 69mg
Sodium 234mg
Total Carbohydrates 7.3g
Dietary Fiber 1.8g
Sugars 2.5g
Protein 3.7g
1 can (15 ounces) solid-pack pumpkin
2 eggs
1 cup half-and-half cream
2/3 cup Splenda Granular
1-1/2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 Tbsp vanilla extract
2 Tbsp Maple Syrup (sugar free if you have it)
In a large bowl, combine all ingredients; beat until smooth.
Pour into a greased 8 X 8 baking dish.
Place inside a 13 x 9 baking pan; pour hot water around to a depth of 1 in.
Bake, uncovered, at 350° for 60 minutes or until a knife inserted near the center comes out clean.
Serve warm or chilled; top with whipped cream and cinnamon if desired.
Store in the refrigerator.
Cooks Notes: Custard should be firm. If the custard is watery run back into the oven and check again at 10 minute intervals.
For a crunchy topping, Scatter top with pecans or slivered almonds for the last 30 minutes of baking time.
How WLS, Eating Right and a Lifestyle change have worked for me
Egg Drop Soup
I find a bowl of egg drop soup to be one of the most soothing and comforting dishes ever invented. You really only need three base ingredients to make it, two in a pinch. And yet breathing in that steamy broth and savoring the first spoonful of silky egg curd, all my troubles immediately fade away.
If you hadn't already guessed, those key ingredients for egg drop soup are stock, eggs, and a bit of cornstarch to thicken things up.
But you can also add in other ingredients of your choosing. I love some fresh ginger, star anise, and a cinnamon stick infused in the broth. If I'm eating this soup for dinner, I'll also add some tofu, mushrooms if I have them, a handful of greens and maybe a couple slices of jalapeno.
This recipe calls for using a bit of cornstarch in both the broth and in the eggs themselves. This is a trick I picked up that will inhibit protein bonds and keep the eggs from going rubbery. Since starting to use this method, all my egg drop soups have been silky smooth and never over-cooked.
This soup is properly an appetizer. Despite its simplicity, I guarantee that your guests will be overjoyed to see this coming when you walk out of the kitchen. This recipe will make four small cups of soup, but can be easily scaled up if you have more guests at your table. I generally use 1 to 2 cups of broth and one egg per person.
Egg Drop Soup
Serves 4 as an appetizer or 2 for a light dinner
Nutrition Facts
Amount Per Serving
Calories 84
Total Fat 3.9g
Saturated Fat 1.2g
Cholesterol 93mg
Sodium 798mg
Total Carbohydrates 3.5g
Sugars 0.9g
Protein 8.0g
4 cups (32 oz) chicken or vegetable stock
1 Tbsp + 1 tsp cornstarch
2 to 4 large eggs
Salt or Soy sauce
Flavoring Extras - Use one or all
1/2" fresh ginger, peeled and cut into rounds
1 stem lemongrass, bruised
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
2 star anise
6-8 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons miso
Soup Extras - Use one or all
1/2 block (7-8 oz) extra-firm tofu, cut into bite-sized pieces
8 oz mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 bunch baby bok choy, thinly sliced
4 spring onions, thinly sliced
1/2 small jalapeno (sliced thin)
Pour the stock into a saucepan and place over medium-high heat.
Put the smaller flavoring extras you're using into a tea ball or spice bag.
Add all your flavoring extras to the saucepan with the stock.
Turn down the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes.
Scoop out all the flavoring extras with a slotted spoon.
Taste and add salt or soy sauce as needed.
Add any soup extras to the stock and simmer for five minutes.
Save some scallions for sprinkling on top of the soup at the end.
Scoop out 1/4 cup or so of the stock and whisk it with 1 tablespoon of cornstarch in a small bowl.
Whisk this back into the stock and let it simmer for a minute or two until the broth no longer tastes starchy.
Whisk together the eggs in a small bowl with the remaining teaspoon of cornstarch.
Make sure your soup is at a bare simmer.
Holding a fork over the bowl, pour the eggs slowly through the tines.
Whisk the broth gently with your other hand as you pour.
Let the soup stand for a few seconds to finish cooking the eggs.
Serve immediately, topped with thinly sliced scallions.
Cooks Notes: This is not a soup that keeps well. It's best poured straight from the saucepan into the serving bowls and then eaten as soon as it's cool enough to swallow.
You can nix the cornstarch if that's not your style. It adds about 2 grams of carbs per serving.
Friday, March 6, 2015
Slow Cooker Southwest Chicken
2 cups frozen corn
1 can black beans, rinsed and drained
2 large frozen boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1 pound)
1 1/2 cups salsa
Spray or grease the bottom and sides of your slow cooker
Pour frozen corn into the bottom of the slow cooker and place the frozen chicken breasts on top.
Cover with beans and salsa.
Slow cook on low for 6 hours.
Remove chicken and shred with forks.
Return to the slow cooker and stir until the chicken, corn, beans and salsa are combined.
Serve in a lettuce cup, or to your family on a bed of tortilla chips and top with additional garnishes: lettuce, tomato, avocado, sour cream, cheese, cilantro, lime wedges, etc.
Cooks Notes:
I mix sour cream, Greek yogurt, minced cilantro and a squeeze of fresh lime juice to make a luscious, healthy drizzle sauce
Lemon Grilled Chicken With Moroccan Quinoa
2 cups of chicken broth
10 oz. package of unflavored quinoa
1 tbsp ground ginger (or fresh grated)
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp turmeric
1/2 tsp cumin
1/2 cup raisins
1/2 red bell pepper, cut into small dice
1 carrot, peeled and thinly julienned
1 tbsp of grated lemon peel (rind only)
1/4 cup of fresh lemon juice
olive oil
Heat the broth with the spices and garlic until boiling, then add in the quinoa and raisins.
Cook the time specified on the quinoa packaging.(about 20 minutes)
Fluff w/ a fork and add in the carrots, lemon peel and red bell pepper.
Drizzle w/ olive oil and mix ingredients lightly.
Cover and set aside. The residual heat will cook the carrots and bell pepper to 'tender-crisp.'
Chicken:
4 chicken breast halves (Evenly pounded)
1 tbsp olive oil
juice of a lemon
1 tsp kosher salt
black pepper
Mix these ingredients and marinate the chicken breasts in a ziptop bag for 3 hours in the refrigerator.
Grill the breasts (Grill pan or BBQ Grill) about 4 minutes per side, depending on how thick they are. (I used my trusty cast iron skillet!)
Let the chicken rest for at least 5 minutes before slicing across the grain.
Serve the chicken over the quinoa mixture w/ fresh cilantro (or parsley or chopped green onions) and added sliced lemons if desired.
Cook's Notes:
- If you have preserved lemon in the house, by all means substitute it for the lemon peel to get a more authentic Moroccan flavor.
- You can certainly substitute currants for the raisins - they keep a touch of sweetness for balance.
- This is already a beautifully colorful plate, but I mixed black and red quinoa with the plain to create a stunning presentation.
Friday, February 20, 2015
Bariatric Black Bean Brownies
As I've said here before, I can't abide even the mild bitterness I get from Truvia, which was in the original recipe, and other stevia based sweeteners, so Splenda is my sweetener of choice. Now that I've made SEVERAL batches of these I've performed a few tweaks for my own taste, most of which you'll see in the Cook's Notes section below.
Makes 16 2X2 squares
| Nutrition Facts |
Serving Size 38 g
|
Amount Per Serving
|
Calories
128
Calories from Fat
46
|
% Daily Value*
|
Total Fat
5.2g
8%
|
Saturated Fat
3.0g
15%
|
Cholesterol
38mg
13%
|
Sodium
106mg
4%
|
Potassium
385mg
11%
|
Total Carbohydrates
16.1g
5%
|
Dietary Fiber
3.7g
15%
|
Sugars
3.2g
|
Protein
5.9g
|
Vegetable cooking spray
One, 15 ounce can black beans, well rinsed & drained
1 cup Splenda Granular (or equivalent sweetener of choice)
3 tablespoons butter, melted
1 teaspoon vanilla (I always use more!)
3 eggs
1/2 cup cocoa
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt (or less)
1/2 cup chopped sugar free or dark chocolatePreheat oven to 350F
Spray an 8 x 8 inch baking dish with vegetable oil cooking spray.
Puree the black beans in food processor until smooth.
Scrape down sides and add sweetener, butter, vanilla and one egg.
Process until VERY smooth.
Scrape down sides and add 2 remaining eggs, cocoa, baking powder, salt and chopped chocolate. Add optional coffee powder at this point.
Process until well blended, scraping down sides and processing to a creamy batter.
Pour batter into prepared pan.
Stir or swirl in optional add-ins (nuts, etc..) at this point
Bake until toothpick inserted 2 inches from center tests done, 18 to 25 minutes. (I hit 22 minutes in my oven for a moist brownie. Your mileage will certainly vary)
Cool completely before cutting into two-inch squares.
Cook's Notes:
- Be sure your black beans are VERY dry.. Spread them on paper toweling to adsorb the moisture from rinsing.
- You can enhance the chocolate flavor by adding a teaspoon of instant coffee or espresso powder. The original recipe recommends a packet of Starbuck's Via. For my taste it was just a little too bitter..
- If you prefer Truvia Blend sweetener (the one in the bag), use 1/2 cup instead of the Splenda.
- This makes a light, airy brownie. If you want a denser texture use less baking powder.
- Instead of the chopped dark chocolate you can also use mini bittersweet, semi sweet chips or sugar-free chips
- Optional add-ins: Chopped pecans, walnuts, macadamia or hazelnuts - and/or swirl in melted No Sugar added fruit preserves (Strawberry, raspberry or orange marmalade)
- Serving Suggestion: bake half as thick in a 9 X 13 pan. After cooling, remove half and spread softened No Sugar Added ice cream over remaining half to make a bottom layer, top with removed half, wrap tightly and freeze until solid. Bariatric Ice Cream Sandwiches!! Drizzle with sugar-free chocolate sauce before serving!!
Thursday, January 22, 2015
Sugar Free Lemon Curd
I need something bright and sunny! Something to remind me of warm summer days. I need some LEMON CURD!!
It's the perfect addition to SO many things. Dollop on top of my morning yogurt. Spread it on whole grain toast or sugar free angle food cake. Drizzle it over Sugar Free Cheesecake - or, my particular favorite.. get a spoon and find a quiet corner where the two of us can be alone...
Sugar Free Lemon Curd
Serves: 1 cup
½ cup Meyer lemon juice (Fresh squeezed are great, but bottled will work)
⅓ cup Splenda Granular
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
6 tbsp of butter cut in to cubes and kept cold
Whisk the lemon juice, sweetener, eggs and egg yolks together in a cold saucepan.
Turn the heat up to low and add the butter a little at a time, stirring continuously.
There are eggs in this mixture! Too much heat will give you lemony scrambled eggs. This is all about heat control, so I move my pan on and off the heat for short periods - always whisking.
Once all the butter has melted, turn the heat up to medium-high.
Continue to whisk until it thickens. When it is done is should coat the back of a spoon and be about he consistency of the conditioner you use on your hair!!
Remove from heat and pour through a mesh strainer to remove any scrambled egg.
Store in the refrigerator.
Cook's Notes:
- The original recipe calls for ⅓ cup of sugar, please adjust your sweetener accordingly. That's 8 yellow Splenda packets or 2 Tbs + 2 tsp Truvia
- If you use regular lemons, you will want to add more sugar or sweetener. Meyer lemons have more natural sweetness. Bump the amount up to the equivalent of ½ cup.
Thursday, January 1, 2015
Spanish Chickpea and Chorizo Soup
6 oz. chorizo sausage, finely chopped
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
1 lb fresh spinach, washed and chopped (or whole leaf frozen spinach)
8 fresh tomatoes, seeded and roughly chopped (or 24oz. can of plum tomatoes)
1 15oz can or jar of good-quality cooked chickpeas, drained
4 cups chicken stock
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2oz pata negra, Spanish Serrano ham (or prosciutto), finely chopped
extra virgin olive oil
2 hard-boiled eggs
Sunday, November 23, 2014
How To Boil Water
Our culture frowns on cooking in water. A pot and water are both simple and homely. It is hard to improve on the technology of the pot, or of the boil, leaving nothing for the cookware industry to sell.
The pot was invented 10,000 years ago, and a simmering one has been a symbol of a well-tended hearth ever since. I don’t mean to suggest that now that you have been reminded of the age and goodness of a pot of water, you start boiling everything in your kitchen — but that instead of trying to figure out what to do about dinner, you put a big pot of water on the stove, light the burner under it, and only when it’s on its way to getting good and hot start looking for things to put in it.
In that act, you will have plopped yourself smack in the middle of cooking a meal. And there you’ll be, having retrieved a pot, filled it, and lit a burner, jostled by your own will a few steps farther down the path toward dinner.
There are as many ideas about how to best boil water as there are about how to cure hiccups. Some people say you must use cold water, explaining that hot water sits in the pipes, daring bacteria to inoculate it; others say to use hot, arguing that only a fool wouldn’t get a head start. Debates rage as to whether olive oil added to water serves any purpose. (It only does if you are planning to serve the water as soup, which you may, but it makes sense to wait to add the oil until you decide.)
Potatoes should be started in cold water, as should eggs. But sometimes I find myself distractedly adding them to water that’s already boiling, and both turn out fine. Green and leafy vegetables should be dropped at the last second into a bubble as big as your fist. Pasta, similarly, should only be added when a pot is rollicking, and stirred once or twice.
Ecclesiastical writers on the subject point out that in the beginning there was water, all life proceeded from water, there was water in Eden, water when we fell, then the slate got cleaned with it. Water breaks, and out we come.
The point, as far as I can tell, is that water has been at it, oblivious to our observations of it, for longer than we know.
I recommend heating up a great deal of it, covered if you’re in a rush, because it will boil faster that way, or uncovered if you need time to figure out what you want to boil. As long as it’s a big pot and the water in it gets hot, whichever technique you choose and however you time your addition of ingredients, the world, which began by some assessments with a lot of water at a rolling boil, will not come to an end.
Julia Child instructs tasting water periodically as it climbs toward 212 degrees to get used to its temperature at each stage. Her advice might be overzealous, but it teaches an invaluable lesson, not about boiling, but about learning to cook: If there is anything that you can learn from what is happening, learn it. You don’t need to know how the properties of water differ at 100 degrees and at 180, but by tasting it at those temperatures you may learn something about your pot or your stove, or the spoon you like best for tasting.
Once your water reaches a boil, salt it well. The best comparison I can make is to pleasant seawater. The water needs to be this salty whether it’s going to have pasta cooked in it or the most tender spring peas. It must be salted until it tastes good because what you’re doing isn’t just boiling an ingredient, but cooking one thing that tastes good in another, which requires that they both taste like something.
All ingredients need salt. The noodle or tender spring pea would be narcissistic to imagine it already contained within its cell walls all the perfection it would ever need. We seem, too, to fear that we are failures at being tender and springy if we need to be seasoned. It’s not so: It doesn’t reflect badly on pea or person that either needs help to be most itself.
Add salt by hand so that you start to get a feel for how much it takes, and as you do, taste the water repeatedly. This may at first feel ridiculous, and then it will start to seem so useful you’ll stand by the pot feeling quite ingenious. Even though the water is boiling you can test it with your finger. If it’s well seasoned, just tapping the surface will leave enough on your skin for you to taste.
When you find yourself tasting your water, you are doing the most important thing you ever can as a cook: The only way to make anything you’re cooking taste good, whether it’s water or something more substantial, is to make sure all its parts taste good along the way. There are moments in cooking when common sense dictates not to taste — biting into a dirty beet or raw potato — but taste anything else from a few minutes after you start cooking it until it’s done. You don’t need to know what it’s supposed to taste like: What anything is supposed to taste like, at any point in its cooking, is good. This is as true for water as for other ingredients.
Boiling has a bad name, and steaming a good one, but I categorically prefer boiling.
We think we’re being bullish with vegetables by putting them in water when we’re actually being gentle. There may be nothing better than the first tiny spring potatoes and turnips, their pert greens still attached, or the first baby cabbages, thickly wedged, all boiled.
Salted water seasons the vegetable, which means that by the time it comes out, it is already partially sauced. Additionally, boiling a vegetable improves the water as much as it does the vegetable. Water you’ve cooked cabbage in is better for making cabbage soup than plain water would be, and it’s easier than making chicken stock.
The best vegetables to boil will be the ones in season. They will also be the ones with the most leaves, most stalks, longest stems. Knowing that you can simply boil the expensive, leafier vegetables at the farmers’ market should help justify your buying them. All you have to do is cut them up and drop them in water, and you can drop all of them in water.
When you go hunting for vegetables for your boiling pot, don’t be deterred by those stems and leaves. Though it’s easy to forget, leaves and stalks are parts of a vegetable, not obstacles to it. The same is true for the fat and bones of animals, but I’m happy to leave that for now. You can cook them all.
We most regularly boil broccoli. If you do so obligatorily, I want to defend it. If you don’t do it, because you’ve always held boiling in contempt, I suggest you buy a head of broccoli that is dark jade green, stalky, and bold; and while you’re at it, one of cauliflower, whole, with light, leafy greens still attached; and boil each on its own. If only withered, mummified versions of either are available, they can be improved by slow stewing with olive oil, garlic, and lemon peel, but for boiling, only the best will do.
A Recipe
Salsa verde is what’s served with Italian boiled meals. It’s the best accompaniment to boiled meat, and among the best accompaniments to anything. This is a simple one.
Salsa Verde
1 shallot, finely chopped
1/2 tsp. salt
red or white wine vinegar
1 bunch parsley, leaves picked from stems and roughly chopped
1/2 clove garlic, chopped and pounded to a paste with a tiny bit of salt in a mortar with a pestle or on a cutting board
1 anchovy fillet, finely chopped
1 tsp. capers, finely chopped
1/2 cup olive oil
Put the shallot in a small mixing bowl.
Add the salt and then enough vinegar to cover. Let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes.
Drain the shallot of its vinegar, reserving it for a future vinaigrette.
Mix the shallot and the rest of the ingredients together.
